Cairo Visit Sept 11 (Part II)

(Read Part 1 here)

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PMs Meeting at Sofitel

I was surprised to see the hotel entrance filled with many big black cars and police as we reached the hotel. There were camera crew also. I discovered that the Ethiopian and Egyptian Prime Ministers were meeting at the same hotel to discuss the construction of a dam on river Nile. This was strange to arrange such a meeting so close Tahrir Square which was hosting demonstrations day & night. Anyhow I could not join the two PMs, I was busy. I had planned to visit old Islamic Cairo.

Let’s Visit Islamic Cairo

Eastern part of Cairo is referred to as Islamic Cairo.  Starting from North East, it extends well into south and has a wealth of Muslim heritage. To name few, Al Azhar University, Imam Hussain Mosque where Imam Hussein RA’s head believed to be buried (read it here – though some historians dispute it), Al Qala (built by Salah un Din Ayubi), Ibn Talun Mosque, Syeda Zainab Mosque (where bibi Zainab, sister of Hassan & Hussein RA believes to be resting, but some historians dispute it) and many many more. You can spend days here. I wanted to start from Syeda Zainab mosque this time and walk up to Al Qala (Citadel).

Khusari Again

On the way back from office, I took a taxi (I forgot driver’s name, let’s say he was Muhammad). I couldn’t resist as we passed near the famous Kushari restaurant “Kushari Al-Tahrir” see Kuhsari food here, I offered Muhammad to join. After lunch I asked him if he could drop me at Syeda Zainab. There is a mosque in south east of Cairo called Syeda Zainab mosque. It houses the grave of bibi Zainab RA. The area around is commonly known as Zainab.

Mystery Mosque

Muhammad accidentally missed the Syeda Zainab Mosque and dropped me in front of another Mosque. It was a marvellous piece of architecture; unfortunately I forgot the name. Walking through the door and alleyway, I landed in the courtyard. A great feeling of tranquillity encompassed my soul; I felt as I have gone back in time. There was a rectangular courtyard all around the mosque. Mosque was almost empty. There were two little reading Quran in the back veranda. There was a fountain covered with a dome like architecture. A person was placing food & water for pigeons; ah this is why the courtyard was filled with droppings.

I had planned to stay little since there was a lot to cover but I could not leave; I was mesmerised by the peace & splendour of this place. After walking around I sat near few people reading Quran. Soon it was Asar time; I prayed and then moved on as time was short.

Sense of Belonging

Walking along Shara-e-Tabanna I saw many mosques, old Madrassas (schools), palaces, sabils (drinking water fountains) and lots of other historical architecture. Time was limited so I just browsed through. I felt so at home while there; as if I belonged here. You will feel the same if you visit any Muslim country. Sense of belonging is such a big thing. I can’t explain my feelings as feelings are to be felt not explained. I turned into small little alleyways, people looked at me curiously but as soon as I said “Assalam o Alaikum”, they replied and calmly accepted me.

These old historical buildings were damaged by an earthquake in 1991. Restoration work was done by the then government. Buildings had marble plaques displaying Mubarak’s name as inaugurator but his name was defaced with paint. Few inside the buildings were saved such as I found one untouched plaque inside Shaykhu Mosque.

Qala was Closed

I walked along the old dusty street towards Midan Salah Udin (Salahuddin Ayubi Square). The square has famous buildings on one side (e.g. Sultan Hassan & Mahmood Pasha Mosques) and Qala (castle) built by Salahuddin on the other side. I quickly rushed to Citadil (Qala) ignoring the elegant buildings; I wanted to enter the Qala and visit Muhammad Ali Mosque but Qala was closed.

Disappointed, I decided to take bus and head back. A young Egyptian man Ahmad was sitting on a footpath with his family waiting for the bus and munching on aish (bread) & falafel. I sat beside him and enquired how I could go back to Midan Tahrir? He was going in the same direction so advised me to stick around, and offered me food. As I was not hungry, I thanked him. He insisted and gave me some. After food, we had a bit of conversation. He was from Alexandria & was visiting Cairo to show heritage to his children. He was very pleased on finding out that I am a Muslim brother from Pakistan.

On the way back, he offered me his seat. Despite insistence he did not sit, and even paid my fare. Ordinary Egyptians are very loving and caring. And this is true for all the Muslim countries I visited. There is a general love among ummah. By the way, I visited many other non-Muslims countries and was always welcomed as a human. I found no hate or resentment anywhere at all. All people are generally loving & caring.

Egyptians are funny people when it comes to speaking Arabic. They pronounce ‘j’ as ‘g’, and ‘q’ as ‘a’. So juma is Guma, fajr is Fagar, Qahva is Ahva, Qala is Ala. This makes understanding them awfully difficult but delicious. This special pronunciation helps Egyptians to distinguish Arabic speaking non-Egyptians.

Anyway, soon I was back at my hotel. I left Cairo the next day, knowing I have a lot more to see; let’s see when Allah takes me back. I miss you Cairo, I miss you Egypt.

The End